The famous New York Times photo of Theodore Roosevelt waving his hat after returning to the United States from a visit to the Panama Canal popularized the use of Panama hats. The misconception is that these hats originated in Panama: they originated in Ecuador’s coastal town of Montecristi. In 1835, a Spanish businessman called Manuel Alfaro started producing the first “Montecristis” or “sombreros de paja toquilla,” later called Panama hats. They were made from toquilla straw hand-split into strands not much thicker than thread, and finely woven. Panama hats are bleached with sulphur or dyed: browns are usually for men's hats, pastels for women's hats, white and cream are universal. After weaving, the hat body is washed, pummeled to provide regularity, and dried. The sides and crown are carefully beaten to even them out. Initial ironing of the brim through a cloth is necessary to remove undulations. At last, before blocking, the raw edges of fibers are trimmed from the brim and back woven to prevent fraying. Hand blocking with steam and iron or with the use of a steam press produces the familiar pattern styles. In 1909 Roosevelt returned to the United States wearing a hat made in Ecuador, but things have change since then: can anyone imagine president Obama returning to the United States wearing an Afghan Karakul after a visit to Afghanistan, or a Pakol after visiting Pakistan? Would the New York Times publish the photo?
